Educhiamo Gentilmente

“Senti la neve contro i vetri della finestra, micino? Ha un suono così bello e delicato! Proprio come se qualcuno di fuori coprisse di baci tutta la finestra! Forse la neve ama gli alberi e i campi, se li bacia con tanta gentilezza!”

Sto leggendo “Alice nel Paese delle Meraviglie”. Ho consapevolmente interrotto le mie solite letture di saggi e scritti molto “accademici” per darmi l’occasione di tornare bambina e ripensare alle cose. Sono passata da “Il secolo della solitudine. L’importanza della comunità nell’economia e nella vita di tutti i giorni” al Bianconiglio…e sono tornata a sorridere. Non è poco. Perché se sorridi sei più gentile..e hai voglia di aprirti al mondo.

Alice, il Bianconiglio e le sue meraviglie filosofiche

Oggi, aprirsi al mondo fa molta paura.

In una pluri-studiata società liquida, dominata dalla complessità, l’essere umano si sente perso e molto solo. Il che potrebbe essere un bene, se la reazione fosse quella di cercare aiuto nell’altro, se il risultato finale fosse quello della condivisione del momento. E invece la reazione è opposta: chiusura, distanza, diffidenza. E omologazione. Perché far sentire la propria voce, diversa, è difficile. Perché distinguersi oggi, a parte tanti bei discorsi “politically correct” sulla diversità e l’inclusione, è un cammino complicato da percorrere. E pensare che distinguersi è meraviglioso, proprio come il mondo di Alice. Sarebbe bello esistessero delle Scuole per la Distinzione, in cui educare a essere non ordinari: portar fuori ( educere ) la stra-ordinarietà. Scuole in cui, come ai miei tempi, il voto più bello è “distinto”: colui che si distingue per particolari qualità, che, nel portamento e nel comportamento, dimostra doti di nobiltà, signorilità, gentilezza. Scuole in cui si insegna la disciplina e l’importanza dell’autorevolezza, due valori inestimabili e oggi considerati fuori moda. La Disciplina è fondamentale per la crescita: nulla si ottiene senza impegno e preparazione, ciò che non costa ( fatica ), non ha valore. Se conosci la Disciplina, impari il rispetto, per te e per gli altri. E comprendi l’importanza dell’Autorevolezza, ne riconosci l’esempio a cui tendere, che diventa fonte di ispirazione.

E quella famosa Matita Rossa.

La Scuola per la Distinzione

A Scuola per la Distinzione si dovrebbe andare da bambini, già dalle elementari: è lì che i bambini perdono la capacità di meravigliarsi, e seguono gli adulti nella loro corsa a chi ha più successo, a chi è più bravo, a chi è più forte. E’ la corsa verso un mondo in cui essere fragili non è permesso, in cui la gentilezza diventa sinonimo di debolezza e fragilità.E così si diventa adolescenti disorientati: si percepiscono interiormente paura e fragilità, ma si è schiacciati dalla cornice sociale che esteriormente ti impone un’immagine di te sfalsata, perché falsamente perfetta.

Una vita dedicata alla formazione

Mi occupo di formazione da oltre tredici anni. Incontro studenti provenienti da tutte le parti del mondo, alla ricerca di un percorso che possa poi farli entrare nel mondo del lavoro per diventare i leaders di domani. Il primo incontro con loro è sempre incredibile e sorprendente: arriva prima la loro immagine perfetta, di giovani belli e alla moda, che ti osservano con sguardo a volte interessato, a volte di sfida. In classe attendono di ascoltare passivamente un po’ di teoria. Poi scoprono che la lezione non e’ come pensata, non è frontale: è interattiva, si richiede partecipazione. E lì’ tutto cambia. Gli sguardi si ritraggono, le posture indicano il “non disturbare”. E’ quello il momento in cui chiedo: “ chi di voi si sente un leader? “. Ed è quello il momento in cui esce la paura e la fragilità. Il non sentirsi all’altezza. Perché se nessuno ti ha insegnato che lo sei già, un leader, semplicemente perché guidi te stesso ogni giorno, allora è chiaro il perché non vuoi distinguerti, non vuoi fare la differenza: hai paura di fallire. E siccome ti hanno protetto fin da piccolo, evitando i NO e le cadute, non sei preparato al fallimento: preferisci chiuderti nel silenzio, non dar voce alla tua unicità.

Durante l’ultimo evento a Milano con Lusso Gentile

Si parla tanto di valorizzazione del Talento. Peccato sia il talento di cui il mercato ha bisogno, con “quelle” caratteristiche, le famose soft skills che devi avere per essere competitivo nel mondo del lavoro.

Nessuno parla di Entusiasmo, di Passione: valori che la tecnologia ha oscurato, creando mondi paralleli virtuali in cui ogni slancio emotivo è appiattito, ogni unicità, ogni imperfezione bandita. Eppure, solo con la passione, la creatività e la preparazione si crea valore. Solo la Passione ti fa immaginare, ti fa sognare. Valorizzare il Talento vuol dire dare spazio ai sogni. Insegnare ai ragazzi che nessun sogno è troppo grande per essere realizzato. Non far perdere loro quel fantastico potere che hanno i bambini: quello di non avere limiti d’immaginazione. Solo così si diventa adulti felici, con dei progetti da realizzare. Educare è un mestiere bellissimo, che non deve essere solo delegato alla Scuola: riguarda tutti noi. Da piccoli cerchiamo esempi da imitare; da adulti possiamo dare l’esempio e ispirare. La complessità del mondo di oggi può essere una grande opportunità: siamo tutti alla ricerca di Benessere. E quel benessere e’ diverso per ognuno di noi, segue la nostra unicità. Ci sono pero’ dei tratti comuni: cerchiamo rispetto, ascolto, gentilezza. E allora…

Educhiamo. Gentilmente.

Devotion to Roots: the new luxury Perspective

The new wave of luxury has seen the emerging of sentimental values as a result of the relevance between roots and history. It is the homage to a long, endless line of good taste and sophistication; indeed, the added sentimental value of these items places them as precious and unique pieces, treated with reverence and respect, giving them a stronger sense, as if they were a talisman.

It represents a mix of history, roots and devotion. Old becomes new, enriched and reinvented through. Trends come back to life, in a continuous cycle of tradition and innovation, in the value of personalised excellence.

Today’s high-end consumers seem to be going through a phase: the drivers of consumption are being turned upside down, and the very notion of luxury is progressively changing. Rather than revolving only around exclusivity, their focus is now unique. To be an object of desire, that object must be truly one of a kind. And this is possible thanks to customisation tailored to specific customer preferences, which in turn is fuelling the growing phenomenon of product customisation in the world of luxury. A product can be truly unique when it has an unusual story to tell, a “life experience” that distinguishes it from any possible replica. This then is the fertile ground where vintage products can flourish, further enabled by the development of digital platforms. These items, also called second-hand or pre-loved, will account for a great part of the total luxury market by 2030.

In more and more categories, consumers are choosing to rent rather than own goods outright. In fashion, the shift to new ownership models is driven by growing consumer desire for variety, sustainability, and affordability, and sources suggest that the resale market, could be bigger than fast fashion within ten years. This is a fundamental evolution in consumer behavior, and we expect it will have an impact on the fashion business in the years ahead.

The last two years certainly boosted this growth as an increasing number of customers are adopting new ways of shopping more socially and digitally, which is likely to continue after the crisis. People sitting at home have been spending more time shopping online and looking for special items with an interesting story or for vintage trends that are different from the contemporary aesthetic.

In recognition of this consumer shift, start-ups will not be the only players making their mark in these segments – established luxury brands will also accelerate the pace with which they embrace new ownership models to further their relevance to consumers. 

Meanwhile, luxury brands are raising prices significantly. So, even affluent consumers are looking to alternative models of acquisition for relief. These demands are catalyzing the successes of rental and preowned models.

Although established brands have traditionally turned a blind or scorning eye toward second-hand retail, they are now wading into the preowned and rental markets. Other luxury players have purchased resale or rental businesses outright to control how their products and brands are marketed on the secondary market.

In a context where consumers are getting more and more used to the philosophy of pay-per-use, the world of luxury is discovering new approaches to consumption and seeing new business models emerge. To earn or convey a certain status, people no longer need to possess an object; they simply need to be able to get it when they want it. In the wake of this new demand, luxury rental platforms are proliferating, and digital products will probably reinforce this trend in the sphere of social networks.

So the “everything as a service” business model has even infiltrated the luxury market. And access-based consumption has various interesting facets. First, it allows a broader audience to get acquainted with luxury brands, to try them out, albeit for a limited time only. The effect is that customers are gradually being educated on luxury goods; this could play a major role in building loyalty in the long run. Second, the pay-per-use option in luxury goes hand in hand with another essential development path in the industry: sustainability. Opting to rent a luxury item appears to be the preferred choice especially of younger targets, not only because renting allows them to spend their money on other experiences, but also because it helps reduce the carbon footprint of one of the industries that by now is notorious for its dramatic contribution to global pollution. This awareness makes temporary consumption an even more attractive option in the eyes of people who are keenly aware of environmental issues. The broader impact is an amplification of this behavior, as young people share their choices in their online communities rather than trying to hide the fact that their fashion is coming second hand. From environmental concerns to a new wave of minimalism, wealthy consumers are shifting toward the economy of sharing rather than the absolute ownership of luxury goods.

It’s been called the end of ownership — consumers forgoing personal possessions in favour of renting and borrowing items. The sharing economy and the notion of consuming without having to buy have certainly reached new demand levels. People are simply becoming less interested in owning things, but still, want access to things and experiences that bring them joy and excite them. It can be easily seen that short-term renting and sharing provides an effective way to lighten the load of one’s belongings, give access to previously unattainable luxury items, minimise an individual’s contribution to the global culture of “things” and lessen the negative environmental impacts of mass consumerism.

This trend is partly driven by the young generation’s hunger for newness while embracing sustainability. This is especially true for young consumers caring about the environment as nine in ten Gen Zers like the idea of buying pre-owned apparel. They are also walking away from fast fashion and its detrimental impact on the planet to turn to the pre-owned fashion sector that comes as an affordable and higher quality alternative expected to become almost twice the size of fast fashion by 2029. And in fact, as far as the younger generations of luxury clients, first among them Millennials and Gen Zs, we expect them to drive both the vintage and the rental markets. This would actually consolidate the shift in consumption orientation from owning to using goods, so consumers can re-channel resources from buying exclusive objects to enjoying unique experiences.

The distinction between owning and renting is a slippery one. The emotional and cultural meanings of the two practices do not always map onto their economic functions. This creates opportunities for a kind of arbitrage – allowing businesses to extract higher payments from consumers by presenting a transaction as a purchase or rental, depending on what consumers value in the context. However, within the luxury world, there is a combination of framing effects and cultural meanings that still associate ownership with wealth. As the middle class approaches the world of renting, including it as a habitual behavioural practice of the consumer, the distancing from the luxury product will be re-established, which will assume an additional intrinsic value thanks to the importance of possession.

Cultural Credibility: The new Luxury Equation

Culture is a very complex phenomenon. It shapes our attitudes as individuals and reflects the level of education
and social identity across countries. Anthropologists, sociologists, psychologists, and economists study culture
as a driver for consumers attitudes and behaviour from different perspectives and produce a variety of possible
explanations on how consumers perceive value’s propositions offered on the market, what they consider
important, and what are the grounds for commonalities and differences in their attitudes towards these
propositions. Issues such as Identity, Otherness and the role of social and cultural boundaries have been
prominent in social theory, sociology and cultural studies. Consumer habits are undergoing a rapid change as
the new generation of consumers focuses on expressing their own individuality rather than ownership. The
consumption of luxury is becoming less and less about the luxury brands themselves and more about
empowering people to become more of who they are. This shift pushes luxury brands to be active agents
in their customers’ identity creation, which goes far beyond the traditional limits of luxury branding. It reverses
the industry dynamics from aspiring to own brands to empowering people and their individual identities.
We live in a “ liquid world ”.
As Bauman points out, in our contemporary liquid-modern world, culture has lost its aim of educating ‘the
people by bringing the best of human thought and creativity, and has become a means of seduction: it seeks
no longer to enlighten the people but to seduce them. The function of culture today is not to satisfy existing
needs but to create new ones, while simultaneously ensuring that existing needs remain permanently
unfulfilled. “Liquid Consumption“ represents a new concept in consumer behaviour: it can be defined as
ephemeral, access-based and dematerialized, compared to “solid consumption” that is enduring, ownership-based and tangible. Liquid Consumption is related to digital and global mobility, embodying fluidity, use,
access, immediacy, and dematerialization. That is, consumer value moves from appropriation to the
acquisition, use and circulation states of the consumption cycle. It is valued temporarily and because of the
access, it provides, as well as the speed by which it provides access. Liquidity is rarely beneficial, as connected
with more uncertainty and less stability. It is not necessarily a positive development for consumers, although
this new notion of everyday luxury fundamentally allows us to move beyond a purely materialistic
understanding of luxury in order to reach a metaphysical account of luxury as a subjective, moral, ephemeral
and immaterial concept present in our everyday living. Moreover, this idea considerably fulfils our
understanding of contemporary luxury so that traditional luxury and everyday luxury can co-exist within the
concept of luxury. Overall, the subjective truth of the meaning of luxury in a cross-cultural context is regarded
as combining the construct and outcome of a reciprocal interaction between both traditional and everyday
luxury, the understanding of the self and morality within different cultures and societies, and different reflections
on individuals’ lived experiences. A few years ago, the western affluents were considered to be the main luxury
experts, while those of emerging markets started to familiarize themselves with its code. Today, this distinction is no longer
manifested and brands are free to develop a new playground that is open to all. Thus, brands have a pressing
need to reassert the fundamental cultural, historical, authentic facets of luxury, but also build on new
foundations: connection, proximity and generosity. As we are slowly distancing ourselves from a mainstream
luxury culture in a contemporary society that is growing more and more fragmented, brands have shown their
eagerness to play with signs and are now more than ever inclined to enrich and diversify their creative
universes. Without understanding what the shifting streams of Culture mean, it is impossible to understand the
real-world implications of any data that we gather.
Context is where the value is. To champion Culture, you have to understand what it’s telling you and what this
information means for your brand’s future. It is clear that Culture today is not something set in stone, but rather
a dynamic built on a day-to-day basis in a constant conversation between people, brands, creators and all
manner of institutions. Brands that are able to participate in credibility – those that offer authentic narratives
and honest cultural interventions – are the ones who are able to build lasting relationships with this next
generation of consumers. It has become clear that successful luxury brands do not broadcast solely to
consumers, but also to the broader culture that surrounds them. It’s about a company’s cultural impact on
society, something that might be considered a form of soft power. This is particularly important for luxury
brands, that are always looking for ways of adding value and desirability to their core product, instead of
purely unveiling new high-end products. Cultural credibility is not a privilege, it’s a responsibility and it
represents an evolution of how we understand that desire. Cultural relevance has risen as a new currency,
and it is an essential element of the new luxury equation.

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